Reading Around WW II

The Winter Fortress, the epic mission to sabotage Hitler’s Atomic Bomb by Neal Bascomb This is true story of the Norwegian underground crew that blew up the heavy water plant in Telemark where my grandparents came from. Don’t know if my relatives were for or against the Nazis as its never been mentioned.

Sabotage, the mission to destroy Hitler’s atomic bomb by Neal Bascomb This is a young adult non-fiction book on the same subject as Winter Fortress

The Tattooist of Auschwitz, by Heather Morris This had to be called a novel for reasons the reader will understand. It is based on the powerful true story of love and survival, as written by the author who spent many hours interviewing Lale Sokolov in Australia, where they both now live. I found it difficult to believe the incidents, atrocities I think we call them, that I was reading about but it is “the real thing” about capture and 3 years living in the Nazi death camp of Auschwitz until the war ended.

On Hitler’s Mountain, Overcoming the Legacy of a Nazi Childhood by Irmgard A. Hunt. The author grew up a Nazi without really knowing what that meant. this is the author’s memoir from her birth in May 1934 to the day in 1945 when she watched American troops occupy Hitler’s Mountain retreat, on the side of which her family lived.

The House by the Lake, one house, five families, and a hundred years of German History by Thomas Harding A research project initiated by the author in 1993 to discover his genealogical connections to the owners and residents of a house placed right on the border of the Iron Curtain fence.

The Storyteller by Jodi Picoulit who writes fiction was a surprise. I picked it up as a light read for travel and discovered a mystery and a truthful telling of a grandmother who had escaped the horror of incarceration in a Nazi camp but had never told her family.

The Secret Life of Betchley Park, the WW II codebreaking centre by Sinclair Mackay This is a factual account of the men and women who worked there.

Rose Hip Jelly

Here is a recipe I’ve used successfully. By the nature of the fruit, amounts and preparation times are approximate. Rose hips have very little pectin; therefore using pectin is strongly advised.

5 – 8 cups (1250 – 2000 ml) rose fresh hips
3 – 4 cups (750 – 1000 ml) water
½ cup (125 ml) fresh lemon juice
1 pkg. pectin crystals
4 cups (1000 ml) sugar

1. Rinse the rose hips thoroughly and cut off the stems and scraggly ends. (I use sharp garden clippers.)

2. Place rose hips in a large stainless-steel pot, add water, and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook until rose hips are soft and can be mashed. (up to an hour)

3. Using a potato masher or electric hand blender crush the pips until entirely broken down.

4. Prepare 4 layers of cheesecloth in a colander held with clothespins over a saucepan, or use a jelly bag. Transfer softened mixture and allow to strain into pan. (several hours or overnight)


5. When the fruit ‘mess’ is entirely drained measure liquid. If there is less than 3 cups of juice you can add hot water and allow it to drain through the fruit again.

6. Discard fruit pulp. Place measured juice into large stainless pan. Add lemon juice and stir in powdered pectin.

7. Bring to a boil and when pectin is fully dissolved, add sugar. Stir in thoroughly.

8. Allow to maintain a rolling boil (one that cannot be reduced by stirring) timed for one full minute. Then remove from heat.

9. Pour into sterilized jars leaving ¼ inch at the top. Seal with sterilized lids and label.

A Lightness of Feeling

I feel immeasurably lighter today than I did last week but it has absolutely nothing to do with body weight. I’m feeling light-hearted with a skip in my steps, as though a great weight has been lifted. Weight was indeed lifted, and I lifted most of it myself, box after box of paper copies accumulated during the 27 years we have lived in this house. From the basement storage room I carted out the door 20 years of financial records, except for the last seven years, that we are required to keep.

Then I began pulling down the manuscripts. Because I had no course time to take high school typing I had hand-written my first book, Management and Foods, then paid a typist to prepare it for typesetting. The finished book was for the BC Education Ministry and I saved those early pages for their memory value.

As I carried boxes and files out to the John Deer Gator for transport up to the garage area I remembered the circumstances under which each file was created. My next book project was Food for Life, by then I had a computer and was typing, sort of. I had carefully preserved each chapter just in case McGraw-Hill Ryerson might want to do a revision of even one chapter for the next printing. That never happened, but by the time the book was “out of print” 15 years later there were other boxes stored on the shelf in front of those files.

When my parents died I become interested in genealogy, which led to my learning there were second cousins still occupying the Forberg Farm in Norway that my grandfather had left to come to Canada. After I had visited them in Norway it seemed the story of the Forbergs in Canada needed to be told. That’s how from Fjord to Floathouse came to be published, with the requisite copies of edited manuscript stored on the basement shelves beside everything else. Eventually there were boxes of edited and final manuscript pages of two other self-published volumes, Beyond the Floathouse, Gunhild’s Granddaughter and Lifelong Learning ready to be placed on another shelf.

Not to be forgotten were the heaviest boxes hiding at the very back of the top shelf. After attempting to reach them, and finding such weight there, I asked a tall strong man to get them down and carry them out for me. They were two big boxes labelled Tribune Timber, which was the name of our contract logging company, sold at least 12 years ago. The grand finale was finding the financial records of Dale’s mother and of his cousin, Verna, both of whom had entrusted us with their leavings upon their passing. It  was long past time to dispose of them also.

So it was with relief that I saw two strong men approach my front door as I was writing this. I had been placing more current private pages in a cardboard box obtained from Monks Office in Sidney with the understanding the purchase price included pickup and shredding. With my pounds of paper loaded in the Gator and brought up to the garage I had contacted the company, Access Records and Media Management, to say they could come for the pickup.

The men came with two huge rolling bins, each capable of holding 200 pounds, loaded my paper and rolled each of them up to the truck. I watched as one of the men pushed a button on the side of the truck to start the action. Then he pushed another button that brought two levers tight against the bin and lifted it up out of sight. I could hear the shredder working and soon the sound stopped. Voila, all my ancient records were gone and a huge weight was lifted away.

What’s in a Scholarship?

June is school leaving time in most of the country. Please tuck this story in the back of your memory to bring forward when its appropriate.

This is the story about a child who grew up on the remote coast of mainland British Columbia living in a house pulled up on to a float of logs and surrounded by water. The few people living in the area, or passing through, were hand loggers, beach combers, and fishermen. Early schooling was taught by her mother because there was no school, or even other children to attend one. The mail and groceries came by boat every two weeks.

When she was ten years old her family moved and she was able to go to a one-room school, where one teacher taught twenty-eight pupils. It was typical then in many rural areas of Canada. But there wasn’t a high school in the logging camp so she was sent, at age thirteen, to board with a family she didn’t know, and visited her parents on weekends occasionally.

Four years later, near the end of her grade twelve year, a favourite English teacher approached her saying “You need to write the government finals anyway, so maybe you’ll think about filling out these application forms for a scholarship.” In 1955 the 400 student school was not yet accredited, and finals in all senior courses were mandatory.

When the school principal called her to his office he told her basically the same thing. She learned the scholarship was a gift from the principal employer in the town, Crown Zellerbach. It provided $500 for each year for four years, to a student studying at university to become a teacher. Did she want to be a teacher? She hadn’t ever thought of it.

Her mind whirling as she signed the forms, wrote the exams and secured a good job selling ladies clothing. She had a steady boyfriend, as most of her girlfriends had; the family assumed they would marry soon, and she would become a homemaker and mother as both her mother and grandmothers had been.

It may come as no surprise to those who know me that it was my picture in the local newspaper when scholarship winners were announced. Then everything was turned upside down. There I was, a logging camp mill-town girl, going off to try her way in a big city. I hastily made the arrangements: secured space in the dormitory and registered at the University of British Columbia.

When I arrived culture shock set in: sorority girls wearing cashmere and pearls (my best sweaters were Kitten brand in Orlon except for one Dalkeith in wool), dances were called “mixers”, afternoon science labs in cold, drafty, army huts, Saturday morning lectures, bus schedules needing transfers, heavy cafeteria food, line-ups for absolutely everything, but oh, it was all so new, and such fun.

I went home for that first Thanksgiving weekend and broke off with my boyfriend. From that time onward I didn’t really fit in at home. I had discovered a whole new world that I had not been aware of, and had decided to be a part of it.

I learned new ways of looking at life, obtained a university degree from UBC, met lifelong friends, including my best friend who became my husband, and developed a satisfying, varied, career that included motherhood also. It has been a very good life – one beyond my wildest expectations. Winning the scholarship did all that – it was indeed life changing.

If you remember nothing else about stories of award winners, even small amounts that provide approval and encouragement to a student, please never underestimate the change that can result in the lives of these students our CFUW clubs give money to. If they are ready to make the change it has potential for a whole different improved life.

My Books about the FLDS Cult

First Prepared for CFUW BC Council members, April 2018

2003 Under the Banner of Heaven, A Story of Violent Faith, by Jon Krakauer, Anchor Books
ISBN 1-4000-3280-6

2004 Keep Sweet, Children of Polygamy by Debbie Palmer and Dave Perrin, Dave’s Press
ISBN 0-9687943-3-5

2008 The Secret Lives of Saints, Child Brides and Lost Boys in Canada’s Polygamous Mormon Sect, Daphne Bramham, Random House Canada
ISBN 978-0-307-35588-1

2009 Stolen Innocence, My story of growing up in a Polygamous sect, becoming a teenage bride, and breaking free of Warren Jeffs, by Elissa Wall with Lisa Pulitzer, Harper
ISBN 978-0-06-173496-0

2013 PROPERTY, the True Story of a Polygamous Church Wife, by Carol Christie with John Christie, Dundurn
ISBN 978-1-4597-0976-8

2017 Breaking Free, How I escaped Polygamy, the FLDS Cult, and my Father, Warren Jeffs by Rachel Jeffs, Harper Collins
ISBN 978-0-06-267052-6

Note: I have collected and read many other books where the story line includes the subversion of women, by men, whose religion, sometimes referred to as culture, keeps them captive within the bond of family expectations.

Success in Early Reading

July, 2013, North Saanich:

My friends and I are sorting used books in a large gymnasium preparing for our book sale in aid of scholarship and bursaries for local students. Grandson, Tait, six years old, sits on the floor under a sorting table going through a pile of children’s books. He’s not finding anything interesting.
My retired kindergarten teacher friend approaches him to make a suggestion. Then she turns to me.
I explain that Tait, who is having a few days for his “summer holiday” with me, is struggling at school with reading. He’s a kind, considerate, classmate with many friends – teachers love him – but that doesn’t help with what he needs to learn.
She tells me, “Sometimes little boys find reading harder than girls do. They need to be allowed to try reading just anything, whether you approve or not, simply let them read.” And so we did; the strategy took hold.

Lego was important in Tait’s home. Big construction projects were always under way, pieces scattered wherever one stepped. Siblings and friends worked at building cooperatively and with the addition of cars and ramps new creations grew. Little sister coveted a pink Lego set in her room. Then, at a birthday party Tait was introduced to Minecraft.
With clever appeals to his parents they agreed to have a trial Minecraft game membership on two of the tablets in the house. Membership expanded until each child had the program and still I had no idea what they were talking about on the phone.

The day I arrived in their town I witnessed this new passion: the three siblings with a best friend from school sat around the room, each with a tablet on their knee. As I listened to the conversation and then peeked over a shoulder, I gleaned that together they were building a castle, with a separate room for each child according to personal specifications. There were stairs, hallways, a basement, built-in defence mechanisms, a moat, extended gardens, and so it went. I was astounded at how well they worked together, planning how common spaces would be used and what they would look like.

That’s when the light came on. If this was his current interest maybe there were instruction books. Yes there are. At the local bookstore I picked two hardcover Minecraft how-to books. There was a set available but I wasn’t sure this idea would work. It did; those treasured books are still on Tait’s bedroom shelf.

More thoughts bubbled up. On I found fiction books based on the Minecraft game. Tim Winton has an enormous list to his name and I began to purchase and send them. These proved popular. Instead of the age appropriate magazine subscriptions I had sent the previous year I sent each child a loaded Chapters card for them to make their own choices.

This took me to a large Chapters store where I sought a clerk who knew kid’s books. Fortunately the young man understood what I needed and was very familiar with the choices. He showed me several different series about animals that turned out to be well-loved by the girls. The most dependable author he showed me was Mark Cheverton.

Each book in the Cheverton series’ is numbered 1, 2 and 3. One is even called The Gamekeeper Series, referring to the Minecraft game. Once more Amazon was my further supplier. Cheverton uses some frightening titles, for example, The Great Zombie Invasion: The Birth of Herobrine Book One. Next in the series is Attack of the Shadow-Crafters, then Herobrine’s War. If I had not had such good advice I would certainly not have chosen such titles for a boy of nine.

A long-time friend visited overnight and when her son came to pick her up to go home we were talking about Tait’s reading and my search for more authors that would interest him. “Try Rick Reardon’s Percy Jackson series,” he said. “They’re far out but the kids love them.” Given that this young man writes fantasy stories I believed him. He was right.

Percy Jackson is Tait’s current favourite character as he explores Greek mythology of other worlds, such as in The Mark of Athena, book 3 of The Heroes of Olympus series.
The best part of this simple story is that during the November Parent-teacher interviews Tait’s progress in Grade 5 reading was a highlight. He’s seeking books to take home from the school library now and has even loaned one of his precious books to a good friend. On a science research project about clouds he and his partner used words in an innovative and humorous way. They showed the clouds speaking with comic book style balloons to hold the words.

The most satisfying part for this grandmother was to see Tait devouring every new book he can get his hands on and when there is nothing new available he goes to his own bookshelf and chooses one to reread.

My recent pictures of Tait tell the story of his new love of reading. There he is after a quick dip, sitting on a catamaran surrounded by other family members who are still swimming and snorkeling. There is another of him reading with his sister at the airport while waiting to load.

Christmas Cookie Traditions

This weekend I baked cookies and in the best family tradition created seven different kinds to be shared with my friends and family. Here is the passage I wrote in my second book of the Floathouse Series, Gunhild’s Granddaughter:

As the days clicked along and Christmas neared, I knew time was growing short when mom began making cookies. Mom had learned that in any self-respecting family with Norwegian roots, tradition decreed that there be at least seven different kinds of cookies on hand. Being ready to receive company that might drop in was also an important part of the holiday festivities and Hazel Forberg took care to meet the expectation of her husband’s heritage.

Her Belgium born mother, who had spent her early years as a child and wife in rural Alberta, had taught her that every housewife needed to always be ready to offer hospitality. Part of that was to have food ready to serve visitors. The humorous part of following these traditions was that, in such a remote location of the coast, anyone who came to visit us came a long way by boat. Our only neighbours were dad’s parents and brother. Except for a few of the hard-working people living in Port Neville Inlet, who might have stopped by on a Sunday, any of our other visitors sent a letter or message with friends to arrange their time with us and then it was during summer months when weather was more predictable.

Mom made a different cookie variety each day while I worked on my correspondence lessons at the kitchen table. It was difficult to concentrate with those aromas. I especially enjoyed her bird’s nest cookies and occasionally she allowed me to help make them. The dough is similar to shortbread, which we formed into round balls, then rolled in chopped walnuts, and pressed down with a thumb before baking. After they cooled mom filled the indentation with her own blackberry jelly or raspberry jam.

My grandmother’s house was also filled with the smells of Christmas baking. Nano’s cookies were different from the ones mom made. My favourites were called creullers. First Nano mixed thin delicate dough which she rolled and cut into strips, then twisted and cooked in hot fat. Once the twisted shapes cooled, she powdered them with icing sugar and stored them very carefully in a container that would not crush.

My mother and Nano exchanged baking of course, and recipes, and we enjoyed varieties from both kitchens. Long after Christmas had come and gone mom would bring forth something from her stash. Despite limited space and no electricity she nevertheless found secret places to hide things.

So here I was this weekend, 22 years after my parents had died, and my Forberg grandparents deceased long before that, baking Christmas cookies according to a tradition brought to Canada in 1909!

Grandmother Gunhild (Nano)

Grandma Gunhild, who I called Nano, was an influential person in my early years. White Nano welcomed me to her cozy floating home beside ours and spent innumerable hours teaching me first steps of most of the needlecrafts that I have enjoyed through my life. In recent years, I have been drawn to the colours she favoured in the fabrics of her dresses. Rich shades of orange and yellow muted by greens and some browns, those colours serve to brighten the dreary grey sky she found in her new Canadian home.

Chosen from the catalogue and purchased by the yard, she sewed almost everything she wore, including the ever-present aprons that encompassed her well- defined frame. With an all-business demeanour she held her shoulders square and her body upright, giving an impression of height. Whenever I slouched she showed me the way it could be corrected, by placing a broom handle across my back and hooked there by the bend of my elbows.

I remember her shoes. They were always black with sensible Cuban heels, and were carefully polished, worn with ugly thick beige stockings. I think they were knit of a cotton fibre mom called lyle. The only time I ever saw Nano wearing pants was when she joined us to walk the beach at low tide to dig clams. I still have a photo of her with heavy wool fishermen pants tucked into grandpa’s heavy black rubber boots, and carrying a fire bucket. The picture on the book cover is definitely not the ever-proper lady I adored.

She poured coffee beans from a tight-lidded can into a well-worn wooden coffee grinder, and with a few cranks of its handle, Nano’s whole kitchen was filled with that wonderful aroma that I’ve coveted since then. Coffee is my primary addiction.

She seemed to know just the right number of beans to grind so their grounds could be placed directly into the basket of the coffee pot without measuring or spilling. Then she settled the lid into place and positioned the pot on the hottest part of the stove, which I recognized as the smallest removable circle of the three used to access the firebox when wood was added. The coffee-making process begun, we could go on with the current lesson until the coffee pot came to the boil. Some days it was knitting, embroidery, or crocheting, but today’s lesson was sewing on her hand cranked sewing machine. I still have it.

As my lesson proceeded, we eventually heard plop … plop … plop … and then the more rapid plop … plop … followed by plop, plop, plop, plop which meant it was time for Nano to pull the pot to the back of the stove before it boiled over. Our lesson interrupted, now the coffee clatch began as she set out the cups and saucers, spoons, sugar bowl and can of Pacific evaporated milk. Into my cup she poured milk from the can to at least half, then, when the blurping sounds of the pot had stopped, she added coffee from the steaming pot. I was allowed to add my own sugar, stir and test the temperature from a spoon.

As I grew older, the percentage of coffee to milk became greater until during my first year at university I eliminated milk altogether. I had forsaken sugar as a calorie saving measure long before then.

Unavoidable Losses

My  oldest and best friends seem to have disappeared. I miss having those long-term female friends with whom I shared life’s trials. Many are sick, some are dying and there seems to be no cure for some of them. Maybe there simply is no cure for AGE.

Early in my married life I met a woman in Alaska who became a very dear long term friend. Our husbands were associated through business. When my husband and I travelled to company conventions three times each year we were able to maintain a friendship with them. As couple friends we vacationed together, visited each other’s homes, met the children. She and I continued writing and meeting when possible. We held meaningful discussions about world affairs, differences in our country’s political system and with lots of fun and laughter each time we were together.

Forty years into that friendship I learned she was having tests. An unusual untreatable leukemia was found. Internet searches turned up a new treatment being tested in Seattle. She was eligible! So began her trips from Ketchikan to Seattle. For nearly two years it seemed to be going well and the test results were encouraging. And then they weren’t. About that time her husband showed signs of early Alzheimer’s.

On two memorable occasions I drove to Seattle, stayed with her and drove her each day for treatment at the clinic. Once that part of the day was over we made the most of the rest of it, talking and laughing each step and mile of the way. Restaurant meals in interesting places were a part of it, visits with her friends and relatives who lived within driving area, shopping for clothes to take home, simply exploring that marvellous city. After my second sojourn with her I suspected things were not going so well. I heard that against doctor’s advice, she made her annual trip to Kawaii. We talked when she returned; I spoke with one of the children who told me she was clearing up her office. It was my sign; only a few days later she called to say goodbye. We had had the best of times but both my husband and I miss her still.

I once had a professional friend. We co-chaired big events, we did short trips together. Our husbands were friends. We discussed and read about spirit. I considered her my soul sister and I think she did me, gave me a picture captioned, “Friends Forever.” Slowly she faded from a dementia disease her mother had suffered early – lost, forgetful. Thankfully her children live near and they had given her precious grandchildren that gave focus to her days. To her I have ceased to exist —.

A new friend entered my life. She moved here from the east to be nearer family. We sought family history together and wrote personal stories about them, organized an all-candidates political forum. I learned how to create a website using MS Publisher and side by side, she and I made it ‘go live.’ One sad day she learned the harsh truth: pancreatic cancer would give her only a brief time to enjoy those grandchildren. Within six months she was gone; I had lost another soul sister.

A close neighbourhood friend loved to talk and we laughed as we walked together. Our small walking group all appreciated her, for she was filled with love for everyone. Although she suspected something wasn’t right in her own body, love for her good husband made his health her priority until after their winter vacation. When the big C diagnosis came she fought, and walked on with us.

She followed doctor’s advice: accepted surgery, chemo, and radiation. As her local support group we walked with her, now more slowly, and continued talking and laughing. When she could no longer walk briskly, instead, we drove her to interesting places where we could enjoy fun together. Salt Spring Island to see the farms, large gardens to see new blooms, seaside restaurants to enjoy real food, even a wheelchair stroll through pathways of her very own home garden retreat, all seemed to sooth her pain. In Palliative Care she talked and laughed with us, all the way to the end.

On the Friday before Christmas one year, while I was vacationing on Maui, a friend of 20 years sent a brief e-note, “I’m having some heart trouble, waiting for tests, if they ever get around to doing them.” The next day she was dead. Now, who will I discuss club resolutions with, share my room at conference, and worse, at the end of a convention day, who is left for me to drink brandy with?

My most recent loss is a friend with whom I discussed children, compared notes on education systems, errant sons, and fiercely competitive daughters. Over forty years ago our five – year – old girls decided it was ‘not fair’ that there wasn’t a district soccer team for them; their brothers who played were only two years older. My friend’s husband agreed to coach a team of girls under six. Those same girls became members of the under-six girls relay team of our Summer Swim Club! A relationship developed between the couples – couple friends are few in any life – and then the family moved to Ottawa.

My daughter and I visited, kept in touch. We had two Mom and Daughter weekends together. The family had always planned to return to this island; we found property for them, sent pictures, they bought on our recommendation, and, on their return, built their dream home. And so our friendships continued.

When her husband died of a dreaded brain cancer she and I still had marvelous times together. We travelled to New Orleans, shared advice, our troubles and triumphs, always over good red wine. In an effort for her to have more time with a grandchild – she had only one – I shared my three whom she knew well. My friend fought her cancers with everything she knew. She hung on to life for a short six months more. We’ve missed her dreadfully.

A friend whose deceased husband was our “best man,” 55 years ago is no longer the same person. We grieved his passing but that loss continues to affect her immeasurably. Depressed, over-self-medicated, obese, suffering arthritis and effects of knee and hip replacements she sleeps badly, eats poorly, moves only with difficulty, and now appears to have suffered several mild strokes. My longest, best friend, with whom I shared every step taken by our growing family: discussions on sewing, cooking and canning, raising children and understanding forester husbands, appears to now be giving up on her life. There are brief glimpses of her former self, but our great plans for sharing new experiences together, including travel, will never be.

I have a huge support group of newer friends but I desperately miss those long term friends. I have children and grand-children; I have love and continuing good health. I may be old, but despite grieving my losses, I am still here and fully alive.


“Fairmont is committed to conserving our planet’s natural resources and we offer you the following option:

           Each day, Housekeeping Services will make your bed using your existing linens.

            Every third day, fresh linens will be provided. If you would prefer fresh linens daily, simply place this card on your bed.

            This initiative is part of our ongoing Green Partnership program. Thank you for helping with our environmentally conscious efforts.”

(This message was displayed on a small card in coloured ink of MIX paper from responsible sources) CO92711


Equipped with hair drier, electric kettle, Kureg coffee maker, refrigerator and microwave, our room was supplied with individual bottles of shampoo, conditioner, various skin creams and lotions, teas, coffee pods and a never-ending supply of bottled water delivered each day to the refrigerator.

And so began this recent winter vacation, so different from any others we had experienced on our favourite of islands. Each step during the day we noted differences that, as independent and reasonably logical renters, we were familiar with. Inconsistency in the stated policy of the Fairmont Hotel was noticeable at every turn. Service of a full buffet breakfast each day was enjoyable but, by the third day, became ‘ho hum’ after being subjected to the required seating ritual once more.

Seeing brief intervals of a courageous sun one morning we sallied forth to the adult pool to expose our pale bodies to sunshine’s benediction. But before stretching upon our chosen lounge chairs the pool attendant offered each of us, not one, but two towels. Later that day we chose an alternate space at beachside. Once again there were the towels, and another convenient towel bin to deposit them in when we left.

Another day with clouded skies and heavy rain seemed a perfect day for a full body scrub if we were to have one of those full relaxation experiences. It went like this: Lay on a towel, be covered by a towel, be scrubbed with sea salt, rinsed with steaming water, wiped with additional towels, more body ministration with scented oil, smoothed in and wiped off; more dirty towels thrown to the basket; now a steamy hot application, next, the plastic tenting over the entire body and steam piped in until my body and all the dry towels were soaked.

Before leaving the room I asked the masseur how many towels she estimated she used in a day. Her answer: lots!